Deep in the mist-laden valleys of Nara’s Tenkawa village—a remote community of around 1,100 people at the headwaters of the Kumano River basin—Chef Toshiharu Sunayama of SÉN is redefining local gastronomy.
Born in London and raised in Japan, Chef Sunayama built an impressive international background. He spent nine years honing his craft in rural European kitchens—including serving as sous chef at the two-starred La Grenouillère in northern France and working at the three-starred Flocons de Sel in Megève. Upon returning to Japan, he spearheaded Les Tonnelles in Kanazawa, earning two Michelin stars and a Green Star as the youngest and fastest chef to achieve the feat.
Inspired by the European tradition of traveling far for fine dining, Sunayama relocated to his wife’s home village of Tenkawa to demonstrate how destination gastronomy can revitalize a rural region. Turning away from industrial agriculture in a landscape defined by steep mountain terrain, he has adopted a philosophy of watershed cuisine ("River Basin Cuisine")—a seasonal map of the Kumano River basin sourced entirely through foraging, hunting, and local collaboration.
This radical commitment to the ecosystem has earned SÉN both a Michelin Star and a Michelin Green Star. Every element honors the land, from using timber harvested through forest thinning to power his hearths, to working directly with local hunters, river cooperatives, and 70-year-old growers for wild game, river fish, and mountain produce.
Highlights from the Kumano River Basin
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Iwana (Char) Sashimi: In the Dorogawa region, pristine spring water allows Chef Sunayama to serve wild iwana raw—a delicate preparation safe due to the river's exceptional purity. The dish is anchored by a purée of ancient Yamato Tachibana citrus and preserved hawasabi (leaf wasabi), elevated by a village-grown Tulsi (holy basil) tea gelée, wild wood sorrel petals, and crispy deep-fried Tulsi leaves.
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Pan-Fried Ayu (Sweetfish): Centering on the season's first ayu caught by Mr. Ogawa, chairman of the local fishery cooperative in Amagawa Village, the fish is filleted and filled with a purée of aged black garlic and native kihada berries. Wrapped around aromatic kuromoji branches, it is pan-fried to infuse the flesh with a woody fragrance, then finished with sharp Jabara citrus, Yamato Mana greens, Hassaku citrus, and crisp-fried head and bones.
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Wood-Fired Wild Venison: Sourced from local hunters, the venison is brushed with an amago fish sauce during hearth-grilling. Plated to evoke the mountain ridgelines, it is served with layered zucchini, a cloud-like browned butter foam, pickled spring warabi (bracken fern), harvested walnuts, and a rich venison jus made from the bones.
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Yoshino Kuzu & Black Locust Dessert: A sweet finish featuring finely diced peaches over a biscuit soaked in spring-harvested black locust syrup, topped with a black locust sorbet, shaved peanuts, and a unique jelly made from famous local Yoshino kuzu.
By fusing elite French technique with wild ingredients and forgotten flora, Chef Sunayama proves that resource scarcity is an invitation to innovate. SÉN stands as a vital practice in preserving the stories, ecology, and heritage of Nara’s sacred mountains for generations to come